This time of
year was very much about Halloween for me as a child, not the trick or treat
side of it but the imagery and ghost stories, the candles, colours and the
thought of the dead walking the Earth for just this one night a year made it
all the more scary and exciting. I had always been enamoured with the imagery and beliefs of
Dia de Los Muertos (Day of the Dead) where families prepare food, shrines, and
beloved belongings of their dearly deceased and often visit their grave and eat
and drink in their memory. Skulls, vibrant colours and the image of the
Calavera Catrina (elegant skull) are synonymous with Day of the Dead but it is very
much about celebrating loved ones who have passed from this world to another.
It is celebrated from 31st October to November 2nd and after many years of enviously looking at photos online and
hearing of peoples adventures in Mexico in particular it was time to go!
We made the
trip in late October last year to the city of Oaxaca, famed for its loud and
colourful ‘Day of the Dead’ celebrations and also for its food, in particular
the moles (the chilli, garlic, chocolate sauce not the mammal kind!). It was
the most incredible place I have ever visited, from the moment we landed Oaxaca
felt like a very special city, we immediately felt at home. Each day the city
got busier, the food more enticing, the colours more vibrant and the mariachi
noticeably louder. A particular highlight being the student parade where
everyone was dressed in ghastly costumes and deafening mariachi bands competed
for ears as they strode past. It was like nothing I have ever seen or heard and
further propelled my love of mariachi music.
The rest of
our week brought so many more incredible experiences and culinary delights but
it was the culture that stayed with us the most. The families gathering in the
Zocalo and the parks on a Sunday morning, every generation represented and spending time
together throughout this festive period. The smells, the colours, the hustle
and bustle of the artisan stalls selling the most vivid artwork and of course
skulls of every size, material and colour have been a constant source of
inspiration since.
One year on
there is a sense of nostalgia thinking back to that incredible week but we will
undoubtedly travel there again in the future. We did bring back several
souvenirs including the spicy hot chocolate and cups to drink them from, some
paper bunting and of course a skull (or two!). We also treated ourselves to this little
wedding souvenir as we were getting married a few months after we got back.
With Oaxaca in mind I will have to make do with a spicy Oaxacan hot chocolate (and maybe a mezcal with dinner!).
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